Riga midsummer Jāņi festival 2026: survival guide

What Jāņi actually is — and why tourists underestimate it

Jāņi (pronounced “Yah-nyee”) is the Latvian midsummer festival, celebrated on the night of June 23 and the day of June 24. In the Latvian national calendar, it is not one of several important holidays. It is the most important holiday. Latvians treat Jāņi the way Swedes treat Midsommar or the way French families treat August 15. It is when everyone goes somewhere, families gather in the countryside, bonfires burn all night, and the urban infrastructure of Riga empties out.

For tourists, this creates a specific trap: you arrive in Riga on June 23 expecting a summer city buzzing with activity, and instead find: most restaurants closed or running skeleton service, supermarkets closing by early afternoon, tour operators at minimum capacity, and a centre that is noticeably quieter than a normal summer Tuesday. The people who would otherwise be working in Riga’s tourist economy are at their family dachas, making flower crowns and drinking beer.

This guide is about how to navigate Jāņi as a visitor — how to experience the festival rather than merely endure the closures.

What closes on June 23–24

Almost all restaurants and cafes: particularly those run by Latvians for Latvians. Some tourist-facing Old Town restaurants stay open (expect tourist prices and reduced menus). The Lido self-service chain, which is Latvian-run and broadly popular, typically closes or reduces drastically on June 24.

Supermarkets: most close by early afternoon on June 23 and remain closed or reduce hours on June 24. The Rimi and Maxima chains in city-centre locations typically close by 3–4pm on June 23. Stock up the day before.

Museum and cultural sites: most close June 24, some close June 23 afternoon. The Museum of the Occupation, the Art Nouveau Museum, and the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum are typically closed June 24.

Transport: public buses and trams in Riga run reduced schedules June 23–24. Bolt (the ride-hailing app) continues to function but may have surge pricing on the evening of June 23. Train service (Pasažieru Vilciens) to Jūrmala and Sigulda runs, but less frequently.

Tour operators: many guided tours reduce or pause on June 24 specifically. Book any tours around this period carefully.

What stays open

Tourist-oriented Old Town restaurants: Restaurants that cater primarily to international visitors (identifiable by English-first menus, prominent tourist street locations) typically stay open during Jāņi to serve the tourist trade. Prices may be higher. Quality during a public holiday can be inconsistent — kitchen staff are also affected by the holiday.

24-hour convenience stores and some Narvessen/Presto kiosks: these stay open but have limited food selection. Stock up properly the day before.

Airport and bus station services: RIX airport food outlets stay open; the Lux Express bus to Tallinn and Vilnius runs on holiday schedules.

Bolt taxi: generally operational throughout.

How to actually participate in Jāņi

The authentic experience of Jāņi is in the countryside, around a bonfire, on a farm or dacha, with extended family. If you have Latvian contacts, this is how you get invited. If you do not, there are organised options:

The Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum typically runs a special Jāņi programme on June 23 evening — folk music, bonfire, flower crown weaving, Jāņu siers (Jāni cheese, a yellow caraway-seed cheese made specifically for this holiday), singing of Latvian dainas (folk songs). This is the most accessible authentic celebration for visitors without local contacts. Check their 2026 programme, as it varies year to year; in 2025 it ran from 6pm to midnight, admission €15.

Mežaparks outdoor stage: the large park in the north of Riga, used for the Song and Dance Festival, sometimes hosts Jāņi concerts and public celebrations. In years when the national Jāņi celebration is held there, it is free to attend.

Jūrmala: several hotels and guesthouses in Jūrmala organise bonfire evenings on the beach for June 23. If you are staying in Jūrmala (see Jūrmala destination), the beach bonfire is a genuine alternative to the city.

The ritual elements: what they mean

Flower crowns (vainagi): women and girls weave crowns of oak leaves and wildflowers. Men are supposed to wear oak leaf wreaths. You can buy pre-made vainagi at markets and kiosks in the days before Jāņi, or weave them — oak leaves, clover, and common meadow flowers are the traditional materials.

Jāņu siers: the yellow caraway cheese is sold in supermarkets year-round but is made specifically (and consumed ritually) at Jāņi. It is milder than it looks, slightly salty, with the distinctive caraway seed flavour. Buy it in advance.

Jāņu alus (Jāni beer): a slightly stronger, sometimes slightly sweeter than normal lager, brewed seasonally by most Latvian breweries. Labietis and other craft breweries produce seasonal Jāni versions worth trying. Again, buy it before the supermarkets close.

Bonfire jumping: the tradition involves jumping over the bonfire, with the belief that those who jump without singing will have bad luck. This sounds like a fire hazard. It is absolutely a fire hazard. Latvians do it anyway.

Singing of Līgo songs: Jānis and Līga are the name-day honourees (Latvian name days are taken seriously — more seriously than in most Western European countries). Traditional Līgo songs are specific to this festival and sung antiphonally — a solo tradition that becomes a group one as the evening progresses and the beer is consumed.

Practical shopping list (buy June 22)

• Jāņu siers (one wheel per person if you love cheese, half-wheel otherwise)
• Jāņu alus or regular beer/cider
• Dark rye bread (rupjmaize) — Latvia’s best food, buy the real bakery version not supermarket sliced
• Pīrāgi (Latvian bacon rolls, available at bakeries) — buy these fresh June 22
• Anything you plan to eat for breakfast June 24

For families with children

The Latvian Open-Air Museum Jāņi programme is specifically family-friendly. Children can weave flower crowns, watch traditional games, and see the bonfire from a safe distance. It is one of the best family evenings available in Riga in June; see the Riga with kids guide for the full family picture.

The Latvian Jāņi music — a note

The musical tradition of Jāni is specific and ancient. Latvian folk songs (dainas) are among the densest folk-music collections in the world — over 1.2 million texts collected in the 19th–20th centuries. The ones sung at Jāni are mostly short, melodically simple, and designed to be sung in rounds or antiphonally. You do not need to understand Latvian to participate — the repetitive structure means you can join in phonetically within a few minutes. Latvians will find this charming rather than presumptuous.

Getting to and from Riga around Jāņi

If you arrive June 22, the city is still normal. If you depart June 25, you will find transport fully restored and restaurants reopened. The problematic window is June 23 afternoon through June 24.

Lux Express buses to Tallinn and Vilnius run on Jāni weekend but check exact times, as the schedule reduces slightly. Flights at RIX continue normally. Bolt taxis operate; order in advance for June 23 evening as demand spikes.

See the Riga public transport guide for the holiday timetable links.